Broome Pearls

Pearls are arguably the most fascinating of gems yet can be the most mysterious when it comes to buying them. Many visitors to Broome are overwhelmed at first by the number of pearl shops and the huge variety of styles, colours and price ranges on display.

What is a pearl?

Pearls are organic gems that grow inside the tissue of a living mollusc, which secretes a substance known as nacre around an irritant. These molluscs can be saltwater oysters or freshwater mussels.

Natural pearls are formed around an irritant such as a parasite which has entered the shell, as a defence against internal damage or infection. 

 When pearls are cultured, an irritant is manually inserted to promote the production of nacre.

In saltwater pearls this is a spherical bead formed from a mussel shell, and a small piece of mantle tissue from a ‘donor’ oyster is implanted alongside it. This tissue will influence the pearl’s colour and tone, so the donors are carefully selected.

The oyster then forms a sac around the bead nucleus, and the pearl grows within it. 

Cultured freshwater pearls do not usually have a nucleus, and the pearl forms around mantle tissue only.

Are pearls really gemstones?

Throughout history, defining what a gemstone is has caused challenges and debate. No concise definition covers all the materials that have been regarded as gems, although the vast majority can be described as beautiful, durable and rare.

Most gems are minerals, though some, for example pearls, coral and amber, are organics made by living organisms. Minerals are usually formed naturally in the earth by geological processes, so a pearl’s nacre causes confusion.

Generally, minerals will have a crystal structure. Nacre is thousands of layers of calcium carbonate, in the form of aragonite crystals and organic conchiolin, laid in a bricks and mortar style. This combination also makes up the inner layer of the shell (known as mother-of-pearl). 

Although pearls are considered to be fairly soft for a gemstone and can be scratched, they are extremely tough thanks to these tightly compacted layers.

Only one in about 10,000 wild oysters will yield a natural pearl. Although cultured pearls are more abundant, gem quality pearls are still considered to be rare.

As for being beautiful, pearls have enchanted, fascinated and been prized around the world for centuries.

What are Broome Pearls? 

South Sea pearls, as they are commonly known, are cultured in Pinctada Maxima oyster shells. As the name suggests, they are huge! In the wild they can grow as large as dinner plates.

The silver-lipped variety produces white South Sea pearls, and the gold-lipped oyster creates a range of golden colours.

White South Sea pearls are primarily farmed in the open ocean off the coast of Northern Australia, with Broome being the main hub from the days when the pearling industry revolved around the shells rather than the pearls.

Pinctada Maxima oysters thrive in the warm, pristine waters of the spectacular Kimberley coast, however few pearl farms remain in the region.

At Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm on the Dampier Peninsula, oysters are brought in from the bay to land-based facilities where technicians carry out seeding and harvesting procedures. 

Paspaley is the largest South Sea pearl producer in the world, with farms dotted along the coast from Broome’s Roebuck Bay to Darwin, often in very remote areas. Their crews work from purpose-built ships which cause minimal disruption to the oysters.

Golden South Sea pearls are farmed throughout the tropical islands of the Philippines, traditionally in protected lagoons and atolls. 

Indonesia cultures a mix of white and light golden pearls, often in smaller family-owned businesses.

Other saltwater cultured pearls include Akoya, primarily grown in Japan. The best known Akoya brand is Mikimoto, renowned for its round, lustrous and uniform pearls. As the Akoya oyster is tiny compared to Pinctada Maxima, their pearl sizes are generally less than 8mm.

Akoya pearls are also grown at Broken Bay, the only pearl farm in NSW.

The black-lipped oyster, Pinctada Margaritifera, produces a range of darker shades: blues, greens, aubergine, browns, silver-greys. French Polynesia is the most common region for growing black pearls, often referred to as Tahitian pearls, however there are also farms in the Cook Islands and Fiji.

The Abrolhos Islands, off the WA coast near Geraldton, are home to a black pearl farming business which produces a unique colour range.

Freshwater cultured pearls are grown in lakes, rivers and man-made aquaculture ponds, predominantly in China. They produce pearls in a huge variety of shapes, sizes and colours, in large quantities and at lower costs than their saltwater counterparts.

There are a few reasons for this. The freshwater pearl mussel can grow up to 50 pearls at a time, whereas South Sea Pearls are grown individually – one per shell.

The nacre of freshwater pearls is faster-growing, and not as fine-grained and lustrous. Instead of two years of constant cleaning and care, they are harvested after only a few months. 

Freshwater pearls are routinely bleached, dyed, irradiated and polished, unlike South Sea pearls which do not usually need treatments and are only lightly tumbled.

Although there are many types of beautiful pearls out there, Australian South Sea, or “Broome”, pearls are the largest, and considered to be the finest quality, pearls in the world!

Where can I learn about and experience the pearling industry in Broome?

When visiting Broome, a trip to one of the fascinating pearl farms is a must. Willie Creek Pearls, a renowned name in the Broome pearling industry, has been at the forefront of pearling tourism for over 35 years. This family-owned business, located just 38km north of Broome, offers tourists an inside view into the journey of the pearl, from shell to showroom.

Willie Creek Pearls sustainably produces the world’s finest pearls; Australian South Sea Cultured Pearls. Guests on the farm tour will enjoy a cruise along the azure waters of Willie Creek, where they can observe Pinctada maxima oysters in their natural habitat. The tour also provides an in-depth look at the fascinating process behind pearl harvesting and seeding. Additionally, visitors have the opportunity to browse a selection of world-class, high-end pearl jewellery.

For more information about the tour offerings at Willie Creek Pearls, please visit Willie Creek Pearls.

Where can I learn more about the history of Broome’s pearling industry?

It is often said that Broome’s pearling industry is as rich in culture as it is in pearls. The history of pearling in Broome has been shaped by a diverse array of cultures, historical events, and courageous men and women who lived lives of danger, fortune, and adventure both on and off the water. With over 150 years of history, there is plenty to dive into.

You can learn about the fascinating history of pearling on the Willie Creek Pearls Pearl Luggers tour, conveniently located in the heart of Chinatown. This tour covers the history of pearling in Broome and how diving techniques in the pearling industry have evolved over the decades. You will get to see and touch rare pearling artifacts, view stunning pearl jewellery, and even have the opportunity to taste pearl meat – a rare delicacy!

For more information about the tour offerings at Willie Creek Pearls, please visit Willie Creek Pearls.

How are pearls graded?

The is no standardised pearl grading system, so don’t get bogged down with arbitrary letters and grades! What one retailer calls AAA could be the equivalent of another’s A+.

However, there are five universal factors, called virtues, which are used to assess and value South Sea pearls: size, shape, colour, lustre and surface/complexion.

Size

South Sea pearls generally range from 8 – 15mm. 

Pearls over 16mm are rare and highly sought after. Larger pearls are typically more valuable.

The largest gem quality round pearl in the world was harvested at Cygnet Bay and measures an incredible 22.24mm in diameter.

Even 1mm in size can make an enormous difference to how a pearl looks when worn, especially as earrings, as well as the price tag.

Shape

A pearl’s shape does not affect its quality, although demand for a particular shape will affect its value. Shapes should be chosen based on personal preference and suitability for the design it will be set in. Each shaped can be used to achieve a different look or style.

Round shapes are the hardest to produce as layers of nacre are not formed evenly. Only a small percentage of cultured pearls will be considered round.

It’s also the shape that is most associated with pearls, considered classic and desirable. Round pearls command the highest prices.

A pearl is classed as near-round when its diameters vary by more than 2.5 per cent. This shape is ideal for strands and jewellery as they appear round yet are more affordable.

Drop shaped pearls are longer than they are wide. Pearls are measured across their diameter, and drops can vary substantially in their proportions. 

There are several shapes that fall within the drop category. These include teardrop and egg shapes, as well as symmetrical ovals. Other variations of the drop shape are more conical or triangular, and semi-drops which have a ridged tip or apex. 

Popular set into pendants and dangling earrings, drop shapes can either be a traditional or more creative jewellery option.

Button shapes are the opposite of drops: they are shorter than they are wide so they have a much larger horizontal surface area. These can be more elliptical or disc shaped, domed with a flatter base, or have a low conical profile.

A high button shape is ideal for classic stud earrings. They appear round when worn but sit more comfortably on the ear lobe. Rings can be more practical when set with a lower button shaped pearl.

Circle pearls have parallel grooved rings around their circumference. This gives them a unique character, and they are often used in pendants or neoprene jewellery which makes a feature of the grooves. As they are harder to match into pairs, their use in earrings is less frequent but can be quite stunning.

Most shapes can be classified as circle if these grooves are present. Often, they also have a high lustre due to thick layers of nacre. Combined with the depth and number of the rings, there is a multitude of different looks for creative designers to work with.

Baroque pearls are asymmetrical and freeform in shape. They are sought after for their larger size range and potential for bold jewellery. The irregular shapes of baroques can vary widely: some are nuggety or have a fishtail, others are more like a pebble.

Strands of baroque pearls are becoming a modern alternative to the classic round and uniform necklaces of decades past. Single baroques are sometimes crafted into sculptural brooches and pendants. They can be worn every day in a casual way, or as a statement piece.

Lustre

Often described as a sheen or glow, lustre is more than a surface reflection and originates from within the pearl as an inner radiance.

Lustre is considered to be the most important virtue of a pearl. The highest quality pearls have a sharp, mirror-like lustre which can be admired from a distance when worn. 

Colour

When deciding what colour pearls to buy, your primary concern should be what looks best on you. It can be surprising! 

Colour is a highly subjective quality. Although white pearls are a traditional choice, appreciation for more unusual colours is growing. 

 A pearl will have a dominant body colour and hue, as well as a light or dark tone and a level of intensity.

South Sea pearls come in shades of white, ivory, silver, yellow and rich gold, and range from deep and strong to a soft hint of colour. They often show iridescent hues or overtones which come from the layers of nacre and the way they reflect light.

Skin or Complexion

The surface of a pearl is its skin, which is rarely flawless. Even the most valuable pearls can have small blemishes or “beauty marks”. The most common of these are indented spots and raised bumps.

Pearls are graded depending on the size, quantity and placement of blemishes. One small spot, or a few grouped together, are easily covered by a setting. If they are heavy, and visible on more than 50 per cent of the pearl’s surface, the grading is much lower.

A pearl’s complexion grade also takes into account the structure and tightness of the nacre and the overall smoothness of the skin. 

Matching

Jewellery designers sometimes deliberately mix colours, shapes and sizes for unique effects, but for most pearl strands, earrings and other jewellery set with multiple pearls, the pearls should match in all quality factors.

Keshi Pearls

When a pearl oyster is seeded, it sometimes rejects the bead or nucleus while retaining the donor tissue. This enables the oyster to continue making a pearl which is termed seedless or keshi – a Japanese word meaning poppyseed.

They are revered for their organic shape as well as their intense lustre due to the thick layers of nacre. These gems are growing in demand, however not in supply.

Keshi pearls of various shapes and sizes are excellent for creating innovative and exclusive jewellery.

How do I choose my perfect pearl or piece of pearl jewellery?

The answer to this will be different for each person!

Consider where you would wear pearls and how often. What will match your wardrobe and suit your personal style? 

There is a saying that the pearl chooses you. 

Allow it to and it will bring you many years of enjoyment and compliments.